Surfing in Ecuador — Breaks, Seasons, Gear, and the Expat Surf Life

Ecuador isn't the first country most people think of when they think surfing. That's an advantage. While crowds pack the lineups in Costa Rica, Bali, and Portugal, Ecuador's 2,200 km of Pacific coastline dishes out consistent swells to a fraction of the surfers. The water is warm half the year, board rentals cost less than a Starbucks latte back home, and you can live the full surf-bum lifestyle for under $1,000 a month.

The coast isn't postcard-perfect everywhere — some beach towns are gritty, infrastructure can be rough, and the garúa (coastal fog) from June through November will test your enthusiasm. But the waves are real, the breaks are varied, and the cost of chasing them is absurdly low.

Best Surf Spots

Montañita — The Surf Capital

Province: Santa Elena Wave type: Beach break, sand bottom Level: All levels (peaks shift along the beach) Best swell: Southwest, December-April Water temp: 72-82°F depending on season

Montañita is Ecuador's answer to Tamarindo or Kuta — the default surf town where everyone ends up eventually. The main beach break offers multiple peaks along a long stretch of sand, with waves ranging from waist-high rollers for beginners to overhead barrels on good swells. The right point at the north end of the beach holds bigger waves and is better for intermediate to advanced surfers.

Practical details:

• Board rental: $10-15/day, every other shop on the main drag rents them
• Surf lessons: $20-30/hour, instructors stationed on the beach daily
• Accommodation: $10-20/night for a hostel bed, $25-50 for a private room, $300-600/month for a furnished apartment
• Food: Almuerzos $2.50-3.50, ceviche on the beach $5-8, international restaurants $8-15

The warning: Montañita's party scene is intense. Wednesday through Sunday, the main street turns into an open-air nightclub that doesn't wind down until 4 AM. If you're here to surf at dawn, you'll be stepping over the aftermath. Great for your twenties. Less great if you want peace. The town has also had recurring petty theft issues — don't leave anything on the beach.

Canoa — The Mellow Alternative

Province: Manabí Wave type: Long beach break, sand bottom Level: Beginner to intermediate Best swell: Southwest and northwest Water temp: 74-82°F

Canoa is what Montañita was 15 years ago — a quiet fishing town with a long, wide beach and mellow waves. The beach break is forgiving, the crowd is thin, and the vibe is decidedly chill. The 2016 earthquake hit Canoa hard, and rebuilding has been slow, which means infrastructure is basic but improving.

Why surfers love it: Consistent waist-to-head-high waves, warm water, almost no crowd. You can surf the same peak for an hour without another surfer paddling over. Board rental runs $8-12/day, lessons $15-25/hour. A month in Canoa — room, food, surfing — can run as low as $500-700.

The tradeoff: Limited nightlife (a plus for some), spotty internet, fewer restaurant options, and healthcare means a trip to Pedernales or Manta.

Mompiche and San Lorenzo — The Hidden Gem

Province: Esmeraldas Wave type: Left point break (San Lorenzo), beach break (Mompiche) Level: Intermediate to advanced Best swell: Southwest and west, December-April

If Montañita is the party and Canoa is the mellowed-out beach bum, Mompiche is the committed surfer's destination. The left point break at Playa San Lorenzo (a short boat ride or hike from Mompiche village) is world-class — long, peeling walls that hold size well, breaking over a rock and sand bottom. On a solid southwest swell, you can get 200-meter rides.

Getting there: That's the catch. Mompiche is in Esmeraldas province, about 5-6 hours north of Quito by bus (or fly to Esmeraldas city, then 2 hours south). The road has improved but it's still remote. Esmeraldas province also has higher crime rates than the southern coast, though Mompiche village itself is generally safe.

Accommodation: Basic cabañas $15-30/night, a few surf lodges $40-80/night. No ATMs in Mompiche — bring cash from Atacames or Esmeraldas. One or two restaurants. This is off-the-grid surfing.

Ayampe — The Quiet Contender

Province: Manabí Wave type: Beach break, some reef Level: Intermediate Best swell: Southwest

Ayampe sits between Montañita (30 minutes south) and Puerto López (15 minutes north) on the Ruta del Spondylus. It's a small village backed by tropical dry forest with a consistent beach break that works on most swells. The wave is punchier than Canoa, with more shape and occasional barrels on bigger days.

The expat and surf community here is growing. Eco-lodges like Finca Punta Ayampe and La Buena Vida attract the yoga-and-surf crowd. Monthly rent for a basic place runs $300-500. The vibe is intentionally low-key — no late-night bars, no rowdy hostels.

Best feature: You're 30 minutes from Montañita's waves and nightlife when you want them, but you don't have to live in the chaos.

Olón — Family-Friendly Surf

Province: Santa Elena Wave type: Beach break Level: Beginner to intermediate

Olón is literally the next beach north of Montañita — separated by a headland — but the atmosphere is completely different. Quieter, cleaner, more families, less partying. The waves are smaller and gentler than Montañita's main beach, making it ideal for beginners and longboarders. The hilltop Santuario de Olón (a church perched on the cliff between the two towns) is the visual dividing line between chaos and calm.

Board rentals available but fewer shops than Montañita. Many surfers stay in Olón and walk or drive 10 minutes to Montañita for bigger waves.

Engabao — Guayaquil's Surf Break

Province: Guayas Wave type: Reef break and beach break Level: Intermediate to advanced Distance from Guayaquil: About 1 hour southwest

If you're based in Guayaquil and need waves, Engabao (specifically Playa de Engabao) is your closest option. The main break is a right-hand reef break that can produce solid, fast waves on a good swell. It's not beginner-friendly — the reef is shallow and the current can be strong. But on its day, it's the best wave near Ecuador's largest city.

The village is a fishing community with basic infrastructure. A few surf camps have opened in recent years ($20-40/night). Day-trippable from Guayaquil — leave early, surf the morning glass, be back for lunch.

Galápagos — Yes, You Can Surf There

Island: San Cristóbal (main surf spot: Tongo Reef) Wave type: Reef break Level: Intermediate to advanced Water temp: 65-75°F (wetsuit recommended year-round)

San Cristóbal has a legitimate surf scene. Tongo Reef offers a consistent right-hander that breaks over volcanic rock. The lineup is uncrowded — on a weekday you might share it with two or three other surfers. Other breaks include Punta Carola (beach break near town, good for beginners) and El Cañón (heavier reef break, advanced only).

Logistics: Flights from Quito or Guayaquil ($250-400 round trip), plus $100 Galápagos entry fee. Board bags may incur extra airline fees ($30-50). Accommodation on San Cristóbal runs $30-80/night. A few board rental shops in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. This is a surf trip, not a surf lifestyle — the Galápagos is too expensive for long-term.

Playa Murciélago — Manta's Urban Break

Province: Manabí Wave type: Beach break Level: All levels

If you're based in Manta — the coast's largest real city — Playa Murciélago is your local break. It's a wide beach with a workable beach break, especially on north or northwest swells. Waves are usually waist to shoulder high. Not world-class, but convenient, with restaurants, parking, and the infrastructure of an actual city behind the beach.

Seasons and Swells

Ecuador's coast gets waves year-round, but the character changes dramatically between seasons.

December through April — Prime Season

• Swell: Southwest and west swells hit consistently, 3-8 feet
• Water temperature: 75-82°F — boardshorts and a rash guard
• Weather: Warm, sunny, humid, occasional afternoon rain
• Crowds: More surfers (this is Ecuador's summer), but still nothing like Indonesia or Hawaii
• Best for: Bigger waves, warmer water, better weather, more consistent surf

This is when most expat surfers are on the coast. The water is bath-warm, the swells are reliable, and the sun actually comes out.

June through November — The Garúa

• Swell: Smaller and less consistent, 2-5 feet, occasional northwest swells
• Water temperature: 65-72°F — you'll want a 3/2mm wetsuit or at minimum a spring suit
• Weather: Overcast, cool, foggy (the garúa — persistent coastal mist)
• Crowds: Minimal
• Best for: Solitude, beginners (smaller waves), budget travel (off-season rates)

The garúa season is an acquired taste. The sky is gray for weeks at a time, the water is chilly by tropical standards, and the waves are smaller. But if you don't mind the gloom, you'll have lineups to yourself and pay 30-40% less for accommodation.

Gear

What to Bring

• Wetsuit: Short-sleeve spring suit for cooler months (June-November), or a full 3/2mm if you run cold. December-April you can get away with boardshorts and a rash guard. Bring your own from home — the selection in Ecuador is limited and overpriced.
• Rash guard or surf shirt: The equatorial sun is brutal. Wear UV protection even on cloudy days.
• Reef booties: Useful for rocky entries at Engabao, Mompiche, and Galápagos breaks.
• Sunscreen: Reef-safe, SPF 50+, waterproof. You will burn faster than you think at the equator.

Boards

You have options:

• Rent locally: $10-15/day in Montañita, $8-12 in smaller towns. Quality varies — inspect for delamination and fin cracks before paddling out.
• Buy used: Montañita has a steady turnover of travelers selling boards. Expect $100-300 for a decent used shortboard or funboard. Check the bulletin boards at hostels and surf shops along Calle Chiriboga.
• Buy new from a local shaper: Several shapers work in Montañita and Manta. Custom boards run $300-600 depending on size and materials. Turnaround time is usually 1-2 weeks.
• Bring your own: Airlines charge $30-100 each way for a board bag. Worth it if you have a quiver you love, but remember — ding repair is cheap here ($10-30 at any surf shop).

Board Repair

Ding repair is available in every surf town. Montañita has multiple shops; Canoa and Manta have at least one each. A basic ding repair runs $10-20, a cracked fin box $20-40. Turnaround is usually same-day or next-day.

Surf Lessons

Available at every major beach. Standard rates:

Package	Price
Single 1-hour lesson	$20-30
3-lesson package	$50-75
5-day surf camp	$150-250
Private lesson (1-on-1)	$35-50/hour

Lessons include board and rash guard rental. Most instructors speak basic English in Montañita and Olón; less so in Canoa and Mompiche. Look for ISA-certified instructors if safety matters to you (it should).

Living the Surf Life in Ecuador

This is the real draw for long-term expats. Ecuador offers one of the cheapest surf lifestyles in the world.

Monthly Costs

Expense	Montañita	Canoa	Ayampe
Rent (furnished room/apartment)	$300-600	$200-400	$300-500
Food (mix of cooking and eating out)	$200-350	$150-250	$200-300
Board rental or quiver maintenance	$50-100	$30-60	$40-80
Transport	$30-50	$20-40	$30-60
Entertainment/misc	$100-200	$50-100	$50-100
Total	$680-1,300	$450-850	$620-1,040

You can live and surf in Ecuador for $600-1,200/month depending on town and lifestyle. Find that deal in Hawaii, California, or Australia.

The Tradeoffs

Living full-time on the Ecuadorian coast comes with real limitations:

• Healthcare: The nearest decent hospital is usually in Manta, Portoviejo, or Guayaquil. Coastal towns have basic clinics at best. Anything serious means a multi-hour trip. Private health insurance with medical evacuation is worth having.
• Infrastructure: Power outages, water cuts, and spotty internet are part of coastal life. Fiber internet has reached Montañita and some larger towns, but 20-30 Mbps is a good day. Remote work is possible but have a backup plan (phone hotspot with Claro or Movistar).
• Safety: Esmeraldas province (Mompiche, Atacames) has higher crime rates. Santa Elena (Montañita, Olón) and Manabí (Canoa, Ayampe) are generally safer but petty theft happens everywhere. Don't leave valuables on the beach — ever.
• Social scene: The expat community on the coast is smaller, younger, and more transient than Cuenca or Quito. Long-term friendships take more effort to build.

The Split-Life Strategy

Many expat surfers figure out a hybrid approach: base yourself in Cuenca or Quito (better healthcare, stronger internet, larger expat community, more services) and do surf weekends or surf months on the coast. Cuenca to Montañita is about 5 hours by car. Quito to Canoa is about 5-6 hours. Some surfers rent their coastal place month-to-month and keep a permanent base in the highlands.

Safety in the Water

Rip currents: Every Ecuadorian beach has them. They're strongest during bigger swells and around river mouths. If you get caught in one, don't fight it — swim parallel to the beach until you're out of the current, then angle back to shore. Ask locals or other surfers where the rips are before paddling out at an unfamiliar beach.

Water quality: Generally fine at open-ocean beaches. Avoid surfing near river mouths after heavy rain — runoff carries sewage and agricultural chemicals. Montañita's main beach can get sketchy after big rains. If the water looks brown, don't go in.

Marine life: Sea urchins on reef breaks (wear booties), occasional jellyfish (usually harmless but painful), and stingrays in shallow sandy areas (shuffle your feet when walking in). Sharks exist but attacks on surfers are extremely rare in Ecuador.

Sun exposure: You are on the equator. The UV index hits extreme levels even on overcast days. Wear a rash guard, reapply sunscreen every hour in the water, and wear a hat on the beach. Equatorial sunburn is no joke — it can happen in 15 minutes.

Getting to the Coast

• Quito to Montañita/Olón: 8-9 hours by bus (Cooperativa CLP from Terminal Quitumbe, $10-12), or fly to Guayaquil (1 hour, $50-80) then bus 3 hours
• Quito to Canoa: 5-6 hours by bus (Cooperativa Reina del Camino from Terminal Carcelén, $8-10)
• Cuenca to Montañita: 5-6 hours by car via Guayaquil, or bus to Guayaquil (4 hours, $8) then transfer
• Guayaquil to Montañita: 3 hours by bus from Terminal Terrestre ($5-6) or Uber/private car ($60-80)

The Bottom Line

Ecuador won't give you the hollow barrels of Indonesia or the massive swells of Hawaii. What it gives you is consistent, fun waves in warm water, an impossibly low cost of living, and the freedom to surf every single day without worrying about running out of money. For surfers who want to simplify their lives and ride waves without going broke, Ecuador's coast is one of the best-kept secrets in the surfing world.

For more on coastal living, see our guides to best beaches in Ecuador, the Galápagos on a budget, and cost of living in Cuenca for a highland home base.