Baños de Agua Santa — Ecuador's Adventure Capital (Complete Expat Guide)

First things first: Baños de Agua Santa is not the same place as "Baños" in Cuenca. Cuenca has thermal baths at Baños de Cuenca, a neighborhood about 15 minutes southwest of the city center. That is not what this guide is about. This guide is about the town of Baños de Agua Santa in Tungurahua province — a small, adrenaline-soaked town of about 20,000 people wedged between the Andes and the Amazon basin, sitting directly at the foot of an active volcano. It is one of the best weekend trips in Ecuador, and you should go.

Why Baños

Baños sits at 1,820 meters altitude — lower and warmer than Cuenca or Quito, but still in the highlands. The town is at the exact transition point where the Andes drop toward the Amazon basin. This means lush green mountains, dozens of waterfalls, volcanic hot springs, and a microclimate that is warmer and more humid than most highland cities.

The combination of landscape, altitude, and water makes it the country's adventure sports capital. Rafting, canyoning, bridge jumping, zip-lining, mountain biking, ATV tours, horseback riding — the town runs on adrenaline and tourist dollars. But it is also a genuinely pleasant place to spend a few days even if your idea of adventure is a long soak in volcanic hot springs followed by a craft beer.

Everything is cheap. Like, remarkably cheap, even by Ecuador standards. The town has been catering to backpackers and domestic tourists for decades, so there is massive competition among hotels, restaurants, and tour operators. This works in your favor.

Getting There

From Quito

By bus: Take a bus from Terminal Quitumbe (Quito's southern bus terminal) directly to Baños. Multiple companies run the route. The trip takes 3–3.5 hours and costs $4–5. Buses depart frequently throughout the day — roughly every 30–60 minutes. No need to buy tickets in advance for weekday travel; weekends and holidays you should arrive at the terminal early.

By car: Take the Pan-American Highway (E35) south from Quito through Ambato, then turn east toward Baños. Total drive time is about 3 hours without stops. The road is paved and well-maintained the entire way. There is a stretch of highway between Ambato and Baños that winds through a spectacular river gorge.

From Cuenca

By bus: This is a longer haul. Cuenca to Baños takes 7–8 hours by bus, with a transfer in Ambato or Riobamba. Direct buses exist but are less frequent. Cost is $8–12. Realistically, if you are coming from Cuenca, plan for a full travel day each direction.

By car: 6–7 hours via the Pan-American Highway north through Riobamba and Ambato. The drive through the Avenue of Volcanoes is stunning if the weather cooperates.

Pro tip from Cuenca: Combine Baños with Riobamba and the Devil's Nose train for a 4–5 day loop. Drive or bus to Riobamba (4 hours), spend a night, take the train, then continue to Baños (2 hours from Riobamba), spend 2–3 nights, then return south. This makes the long drive worth it.

From Guayaquil

5–6 hours by bus via Ambato. $6–8. Not a common route for expats but doable.

The Waterfall Route (Ruta de las Cascadas)

This is the number one thing to do in Baños. Do not skip it.

The Ruta de las Cascadas is a 17-kilometer road that runs east from Baños along the Pastaza River gorge, passing 7+ major waterfalls before reaching the town of Puyo (gateway to the Amazon). The road cuts through tunnels, crosses bridges over the gorge, and has viewpoints at every waterfall.

How to Do It

Option 1 — Mountain bike (recommended): Rent a bike in town for $10–15/day. The ride from Baños to Pailón del Diablo (the biggest waterfall, about 17 km) is mostly downhill, following the old road that parallels the main highway. The route has been improved with separate bike paths on some stretches, but you will share the road with cars and buses on others. Allow 2–3 hours at a casual pace with stops at every waterfall. At the end, you have three choices: ride back uphill (hard work), take a bus back ($1–2, bikes go on top or in the luggage compartment), or arrange pickup with a camioneta (pickup truck, $5–8, the driver loads your bike in the back).

Option 2 — Chiva (open-air bus tour): $5–8 for a guided chiva tour that stops at the major waterfalls. These are open-sided buses, often with music blasting. Fun but touristy. Tours last about 3–4 hours and depart from the center of town multiple times daily.

Option 3 — Drive: If you have a car, just drive the route yourself and stop wherever you want. Parking is available at the major waterfalls ($0.50–1).

Option 4 — Taxi or hired driver: $20–30 for a private tour of the route with waiting time at stops.

The Waterfalls

Pailón del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron): The big one. A massive, thundering waterfall on the Río Verde, about 17 km east of Baños. From the parking area, you hike down a steep trail (15–20 minutes) through lush vegetation to viewing platforms right next to the falls. The spray is intense — you will get wet. There is also a tunnel that takes you behind the waterfall (bring a rain jacket or accept being soaked). Entrance fee: $2. This waterfall alone justifies the trip to Baños.

Manto de la Novia (Bride's Veil): A thin, elegant waterfall visible from the road. The best way to see it is via the tarabita — a cable car that takes you across the river gorge to a viewing platform on the other side. The tarabita ride itself is a thrill: a small open-air cage suspended on cables over the gorge, several hundred feet up. $2 for the tarabita round-trip.

Cascada de Agoyán: A large waterfall near the Agoyán hydroelectric dam, about 7 km from town. Impressive in volume, less dramatic in height. Free viewing from the road.

Cascada San Pedro, Cascada San Jorge, Cascada Chamana: Smaller falls along the route, each with viewing points and short trails.

Adventure Activities

Swing at the End of the World (Casa del Árbol)

The one you've seen on Instagram. A wooden swing perched on the edge of a mountain at Casa del Árbol (The Treehouse), a small seismic monitoring station with a viewing platform overlooking Tungurahua volcano. On a clear day, the volcano looms directly in front of you while you swing over the edge. On a cloudy day — which is frequent — you swing over a white void, which is its own kind of unsettling.

Details: $1 entrance fee. Getting there requires a taxi ($5–8 one way from town), the tourist bus ($3 round-trip, departs from the center), or a steep hike up (about 1.5 hours). Go early morning for the best chance of clear skies. There are actually two swings — the big one and a smaller one. Lines can be long on weekends and holidays.

Honest assessment: The swing itself takes about 30 seconds. The view, when visible, is spectacular. Is it worth the trip? Yes, but manage your expectations — it is a quick thrill, not a half-day activity. Combine it with hiking in the area.

Bridge Jumping (Puenting)

This is Ecuador's version of bungee jumping, done off bridges over river gorges using a pendulum system (you swing under the bridge rather than bouncing up and down). Multiple spots along the waterfall route offer puenting.

Details: $20 per jump. The most popular bridge is Puente San Francisco, about 5 km east of town. The drop is roughly 30–40 meters into the gorge. Operators provide all equipment. It is not regulated the way it would be in Europe or the US — assess the operator's equipment and professionalism before you jump. Most are fine, but use your judgment.

Canyoning

Rappel down waterfalls. You suit up in a wetsuit, helmet, and harness, then descend a series of waterfalls of increasing height, finishing with a jump into a pool. It is wet, cold, physical, and exhilarating.

Details: $30–40 per person for a half-day tour (3–4 hours including transport). Multiple operators in town. The standard route includes 4–6 rappels on waterfalls ranging from 5 to 30+ meters. No experience necessary. Operators provide all gear. Book through any tour agency on the main street (Calle Ambato) or directly through operators like Geotours, Imagine Ecuador, or Expediciones Amazónicas.

White Water Rafting

The Pastaza River offers class III–IV rapids, and several tributaries provide options for different skill levels.

Details: $30–50 for a half-day trip (3–4 hours on the water). Full-day trips are available for $50–70. The Pastaza itself is powerful — class III for most sections, class IV in some stretches. The Patate River offers a calmer alternative for beginners. All equipment provided. Minimum age is usually 12.

Zip-Lining (Canopy Tours)

Multiple canopy tour operations along the waterfall route string cables across the river gorge. You clip in and fly over the valley.

Details: $10–20 per person for a series of 3–6 zip lines. The longer, higher lines are more fun (and slightly more expensive). Some operations offer a "Superman" position (face-down, arms out). The views are genuinely impressive — you are zipping over a gorge with a river hundreds of feet below.

ATV Tours

Guided ATV rides through the hills and rural roads around Baños.

Details: $25–40 for a 2–3 hour tour. You ride in a group with a guide. No experience necessary. They are loud and somewhat destructive to the trails, but undeniably fun if you enjoy motorized adventure.

Horseback Riding

Rides to Tungurahua's flanks, through cloud forest, or along mountain trails.

Details: $15–30 for a 2–3 hour ride. Quality of horses and guides varies significantly. Ask to see the horses before committing — if they look tired or underfed, choose another operator.

Hot Springs (Termas)

Baños literally means "baths." The town exists because of its volcanic hot springs, which have been considered healing since pre-Inca times.

Termas de la Virgen

The main hot springs, located right in town at the base of a waterfall. There are several pools at different temperatures — the hottest are genuinely hot (around 54°C/129°F at the source, cooled in the pools to 35–42°C). There is also a cold plunge pool fed by the waterfall. The facility is basic — concrete pools, minimal changing rooms, bring your own towel.

Details: $3 entrance ($2 for residents with cedula at some times). Open daily, with different hours for daytime and nighttime bathing. Night bathing (8 PM–10 PM, Friday and Saturday) is the best experience — steam rises from the hot water into the cool mountain air, the waterfall is lit up, and the crowd thins out compared to daytime. Bring a lock for the lockers.

Termas El Salado

About 2 km from the town center, a short walk or $1 taxi ride. Smaller and less crowded than La Virgen, with multiple pools at varying temperatures. Many locals and repeat visitors prefer El Salado for the quieter atmosphere.

Details: $3 entrance. The walk from town crosses a pedestrian bridge over the gorge that is a nice experience itself. Slightly less maintained than La Virgen but the water quality is arguably better.

Santa Ana Hot Springs

Newer, more upscale facility about 4 km from town. Individual and private soaking tubs available.

Details: $5–10 depending on the pool or tub type. More comfortable than the public pools but less of the authentic experience.

Hot springs tip: The minerals in the volcanic water will stain light-colored swimsuits. Bring a dark-colored suit you don't mind getting discolored. Also, remove silver jewelry — the sulfur can tarnish it.

Where to Stay

Baños has hundreds of accommodation options, from $8 dorm beds to $150 boutique hotels. Competition keeps prices low.

Budget ($15–30/night)

• Hospedaje Santa Cruz — clean, central, basic rooms, $15–20
• La Floresta Hostal — popular backpacker spot, $10 dorms, $20–25 privates, social atmosphere
• Plants & Coffee Hostel — newer, well-designed, $12 dorms, $25–30 privates, excellent common area

Mid-Range ($40–80/night)

• Posada del Arte — charming, well-located, art-themed, $40–60
• Hotel La Floresta (different from the hostal) — $50–70, good amenities
• Sangay Spa Hotel — pool, spa, restaurant, $60–80, the old-guard "nice hotel" in town

Splurge ($80–150/night)

• Luna Volcán — perched on the hillside with volcano views, hot tub, $100–150
• Samari Spa Resort — full resort experience, spa treatments, $100–140
• Various Airbnb cabañas with private hot tubs — $80–120, search for "cabaña Baños"

Booking tip: Walk-in rates are almost always cheaper than online rates, especially on weekdays. If you arrive without a reservation on a Monday through Thursday, you can often negotiate 20–30% off listed prices. Weekends and holidays (especially Carnival in February/March), book ahead.

Where to Eat and Drink

Must-Try Baños Food

Melcocha (Taffy): You will see people pulling taffy on every other block. This is melcocha — sugarcane taffy that is stretched and folded on hooks mounted to walls and doorframes. Street vendors pull it in long, theatrical arcs. Buy a bag for $1–2. The fresh stuff, still warm, is far better than the packaged version.

Jugo de caña (Sugarcane Juice): Fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, sometimes with lemon. $1 for a large glass. Vendors set up along the main streets with hand-cranked presses. Refreshing and intensely sweet.

Almuerzos: As everywhere in Ecuador, the best value is the set lunch. $2.50–4 for soup, main course, juice, and sometimes dessert. Walk a block or two off the main tourist street (Calle Ambato) for better prices.

Restaurants and Bars

Café Hood — The expat-friendly spot. Good burgers, Mexican food, craft drinks, reliable WiFi, English-speaking staff. A safe choice when you want something familiar. Main courses $5–10.

Stray Dog Brewpub — Craft beer in Baños. They brew on-site and serve a rotating selection alongside pub food. Pints $3–5. The vibe is casual and social — a good place to meet other travelers.

Swiss Bistro — surprisingly good European-style food, fondue, crepes, wine list. $8–15 per main course. One of the nicer sit-down options.

Mercado Central — the town market, where locals eat. Almuerzos for $2.50–3.50, fresh juices $1. Go for the authentic experience.

Casa Hood — pizza and pasta spot, solid for a casual dinner. $5–8.

La Casa de Marcelo — Ecuadorian and international, slightly upscale by Baños standards, $8–12 main courses.

General pricing: You can eat three meals in Baños for under $15/day without trying hard. A "splurge" dinner with drinks at a nice restaurant is $20–30 per person.

The Volcano: Tungurahua

You cannot visit Baños without thinking about Tungurahua, the 5,023-meter active stratovolcano that looms directly over the town. The volcano's name means "throat of fire" in Kichwa, and it has earned the name.

Recent history: Tungurahua entered a major eruptive phase in 1999, forcing the complete evacuation of Baños. The town was essentially abandoned for months. Residents famously broke through military blockades to return to their homes. Activity continued intermittently with significant eruptions in 2006, 2008, 2010, 2014, and the last notable activity in August 2016. As of 2026, the volcano is quiet but classified as active, and the Instituto Geofísico monitors it 24/7 with seismographs, GPS stations, and gas sensors.

Is it safe? Yes, with caveats. The town has lived alongside eruptions for decades and has a well-practiced evacuation system. Routes are marked with signs throughout town (look for "Ruta de Evacuación" signs). Sirens are tested periodically. If the volcano becomes active again, you will have warning. The danger is primarily from pyroclastic flows on the western flank and lahars (volcanic mudflows) down river valleys — the town itself is positioned to the north, which has historically been less directly impacted.

On a clear day: You can see the snow-capped peak from the main plaza. "Clear day" is the operative phrase — cloud cover is frequent, especially in the afternoon. Your best chance for a view is early morning (before 9 AM) or occasionally at sunset when clouds break.

Suggested Itineraries

2 Nights (Long Weekend from Quito)

Day 1: Arrive by mid-morning bus from Quito. Check into hotel. Walk the town, get oriented. Afternoon: Termas de la Virgen or El Salado. Evening: dinner at Café Hood or Stray Dog, melcocha from a street vendor.

Day 2: The big day. Morning: bike the Ruta de las Cascadas to Pailón del Diablo. Hike down to the waterfall. Take a tarabita at Manto de la Novia. Afternoon: bus or truck back to town with your bike. Optional: swing at Casa del Árbol (go directly from town, before or after the waterfall route). Evening: dinner, drinks, night bathing at Termas de la Virgen.

Day 3: Morning: one adventure activity (canyoning, rafting, or puenting). Afternoon: bus back to Quito.

3 Nights (Relaxed Trip)

Add a day for a second adventure activity, horseback riding into the hills, or a day trip toward Puyo and the edge of the Amazon (1.5 hours east — visit the Pailón del Diablo if you didn't on day 2, see the transition from highlands to jungle).

4–5 Nights (Baños + Riobamba Loop from Cuenca)

Day 1: Cuenca to Riobamba (4 hours by bus or car). Night in Riobamba. Day 2: Explore Riobamba. Optional: Devil's Nose train or Chimborazo day trip. Day 3: Riobamba to Baños (2 hours). Afternoon hot springs. Night in Baños. Day 4: Waterfall route by bike. Adventure activity. Day 5: Morning activity or relaxation. Afternoon: bus or drive back to Cuenca via Ambato and Riobamba (7–8 hours total, break it up with stops).

Practical Tips

• Altitude adjustment: If you are coming from Cuenca (2,500m) or Quito (2,800m), Baños at 1,820m will feel warmer and slightly easier to breathe. If you are coming from sea level, it is still a mild altitude — most people feel fine.
• Weather: Expect rain. Baños gets rain year-round, often in sudden afternoon downpours. Mornings are usually clearer. Bring a light rain jacket. Temperature ranges from 15–25°C (59–77°F).
• Cash: Bring cash from the mainland. Baños has ATMs (Banco del Pacífico, Banco Pichincha on the main streets), but they sometimes run out on busy weekends. Many smaller tour operators and hostels are cash-only.
• Bargain on tours: Tour prices on the chalkboards outside agencies are starting prices. If you are booking multiple activities or going as a group, ask for a discount — 10–15% off is common.
• Sunday is packed. Domestic tourists flood Baños on weekends, especially Sunday. If you want the town to yourself, go Tuesday through Thursday.
• Don't confuse the two Baños. When buying a bus ticket, say "Baños de Agua Santa" or "Baños, Tungurahua" to make sure you don't end up at Baños de Cuenca.

The Bottom Line

Baños is the best value adventure destination in Ecuador. You can bike past seven waterfalls, swing over a volcano, soak in volcanic hot springs, eat three meals, and sleep in a comfortable hotel — all for under $80 in a day. From Quito, it is an easy 3.5-hour bus ride. From Cuenca, it is a longer trek but pairs perfectly with Riobamba for a multi-day highlands loop.

Go for at least 2 nights. Bike the waterfall route. Soak at Termas de la Virgen after dark. Eat the melcocha. And check the morning sky for Tungurahua — when the clouds part and that volcanic cone appears directly above you, you will understand why people keep coming back.

For more Ecuador travel ideas, see our Galápagos Budget Guide, Cuenca Day Trips, and Domestic Travel Guide.